Sunday, March 15, 2009

A New Chapter

Do you ever look at your life as a chapter book? There's the chapter on early childhood, then the adolescent and teenage years followed by college days, etc. With the inception of Facebook, we can all see the people from various chapters of our lives. I get a real kick out of seeing pictures of my friends from high school and college. Some look the same, some older, and some actually look better. Some old friends I don't even recognize.

I feel like a new chapter is beginning in my book of life. As you all know, I recently became a Grandpa...but other changes have happened recently as well. I start transitioning into a new job tomorrow at one of our business units. I'm really excited about it. On the flip side, Dawn and I are no longer in a relationship. While I think it is probably the best thing for both of us, I do miss her at times.

Life rolls on...reality hits me when I see a leak in the ceiling or hear my Grand daughter cry. There's laundry to fold, etc.

This week, I didn't get in much mileage to speak of...Goat and I did the loop at the reservoir, and I got in some shorter runs during the week. I need to make a more concerted effort this week...especially with the new job starting up.

Ahh, the new job! Yes, I'm going to be traveling about 1/2 hour from home for the same pay, and working longer hours, yet I'm completely psyched about it. I believe it's one of those jobs you always dream about... I'll be leading a team of engineers dedicated to reducing the cost of commercial fuel cells. Basically, we need to prove that this alternate to fossil fuels is a viable business in order for our company to continue investing in the product line. I look at it as my opportunity to help save the planet (including the squirrels...remember Cheri and the saving the squirrels!). I am really excited about it.

So, today I was pondering all this while rock climbing with an old friend and his pregnant wife. The funny thing is....these folks are from previous chapters in my life. Pete was a business associate from a supplier for many years, then became a climbing mentor and friend. Next, we were there to support eachother through divorces (first him and then me). His new wife, Christine, dated me for a short period several years ago as part of a previous chapter in our lives. Things didn't work out with us, but eventually they started climbing together, then dating, and now things have really worked out for them. She is now pregnant with their baby, and I couldn't be happier for them.

The weather was incredible today, and we climbed at one of my favorite crags, Owl's Lair. Pete is a great climber, but is not currently in his best climbing shape. Still, he managed to send the Enforcer (5.11), a very difficult climb. It's one of the Connecticut traprock testpieces, and I've only climbed it clean (without falling) a couple times in past years. Christine was climbing amazingly well for being 6 months pregnant. I was a bit surprised to see her climbing, but she did great with her full body harness. As for me, I was just happy to be there. Natasha woke a rattlesnake in a crack right next to me. It was cool to hear the rattle as I'd never heard one. The Goat and Seabiscuit made a showing, and we all had a great time.

On my second try at the Enforcer, I made it with one fall and was satisfied. I knew I had gotten it clean in the past, and could get it again at some point this year. It wasn't high on my priority list. I climbed all the routes that I wanted, and was starting to think about packing up. Then Natasha asked me if I wanted to take another run on the Enforcer. I figured it was good to get the work out in, but didn't expect to get very far. I roped up, and headed up the intimidating face. Before I knew it, Natasha was yelling, "Great job!" I was pulling through every hard move without any hesitation. Then, I let out a big, "Woohoooo!" when I hit the top. How sweet it is....

While it wasn't that important for me to get the Enforcer clean today, it sure made my day a little brighter. I haven't climbed this well in a long time, and it makes me feel good about some of the climbing adventures I have planned for this summer. We'll see how that part of this new chapter goes....

So, a new chapter begins tomorrow, and I haven't been this excited in a long time. There's no doubt it will be interesting. The work will be challenging,watching my daughters, and grand daughter grow will be fantastic, and eventually I'll find the time to do the other important things in life.

As a wise man, Rudyard Kipling, once said, "If you can fill the unforgiving minute with 60 seconds of distance run, then yours is the world and everything that's in it...and what's more, you'll be a man, my son." Here's to filling every minute!

Peace!

Sunday, March 8, 2009

Weekends

Weekends...it should be listed in the dictionary as "a time to complete overdue tasks, a time to recharge your batteries, a time to regroup, a time to spend with friends and family, a time to travel, and a time to realize your dreams. Yeah baby!

I hope everyone enjoyed the great weather as much as I did this weekend!

I like to start the weekend by getting some exercise. In particular, I enjoy going to a Hot Yoga class on Friday after work. This helps me to get out the stress from the work week, and puts me in the right frame of mind for the next 2 days. It's a great way to kick-start the weekend. After yoga on Friday night, I watched "Slum-dog Millionaire" with my daughters. Impressive movie, thought provoking...I highly recommend it. I've been to India a couple times, and it sure seemed to show the India I saw while I was there. I wonder what Americans from India think of the movie.

Saturday - My friend, Scottie, and I went to the Gunks for some early season rock climbing. I couldn't believe we were climbing with snow still on the ground and ice on part of the cliff, but we had an incredible day. The Gunks are a special place. I grew up within biking distance and spent a lot of time there in high school. Now, I go there as often as possible for climbing. Considering it was our first day out for the year, we climbed some sporty stuff. Here's Scottie warming up on the first pitch of "Sixish" a popular moderate climb.I led a new pitch and Scottie led a pitch that I had never experienced which always makes it more fun. Here's a shot of my after pulling the roof on "Drunkards Delight", one of my favorite climbs.We climbed 10 pitches on the day which is less than half of my personal record of 21 pitches in one day, but still pretty darn good for the first day of the year.

Sunday - Goat and I had planned to meet for a long run on Sunday at 9AM. I was pretty burnt from climbing on Saturday, so wanted to sleep in a bit. Goat called me at 7:45 to inform me that it was really 8:45....Damn! The clocks changed...I threw on some running gear, filled a couple water bottles and jumped in the car. Captain Bill had inspired me by mentioning that he had clocked in a 15 miler last weekend, and I wanted to test the legs a bit. Goat and I headed for Hublein Tower, and I was amazed that I was able to run the steep trail to the top without walking. Hmmm...maybe I'm in better shape than I thought. The north side was really icy, so we opted to head back and do the standard reservoir loop. Lots of folks out running, walking, and biking. Great to see so many people taking advantage of the good weather. We logged 14 miles in muddy and icy conditions in a bit under 2.5 hours. The pace actually felt pretty good.

I sit here tonight relaxed and fulfilled. I didn't get all my chores completed, and I have to get my lesson ready to teach class this week. Like everyone there are issues to face in my full-time job, and a lot of time is dedicated to family, etc. It's OK though. It was a good weekend, and we just need to get through 5 more days to enjoy another one.

Hope you all had a great weekend, and are looking forward to the next one, and the one after, and ....

Peace!

P.S. - Thanks for all the great feedback on the blog. I'm glad so many enjoy reading it. I'm thinking of changing the name of the blog from "Ultra Steve" to something more meaningful. I'd appreciate any input on what you think would describe the content of this blog in a few words. Post a comments or shoot me an email. Thanks!

Saturday, February 28, 2009

Just call me Grandpa!

Wooooohoooooo! I'm a Grandpa! Welcome to the world, Maliyah Yvonne! My daughter, Jamie, is the proud Mom of a beautiful little 7 lbs. 1 oz. peanut.
Isn't she a cutie? Yes, she does come with arms and legs! They are just hidden in there for safe keeping right now. Doesn't she look like she's ready for a run with Grandpa?

Wait a minute! Let's back up for a moment...this was not part of the plan. At 44, the kids would be starting to leave the nest, and the wife (now ex-wife) and I would be exploring the world together. While all of our single or newly married Yuppie friends were out partying back in the late 80's, I consoled myself knowing that I would be "finished" with my parenting duties by my mid-40's. I would be retiring by 50, and living the good life. Wow, was I ever wrong!

I now have 2 daughters and a little bundle of joy at home. They say if you want to make God laugh, tell him what your plans are.....I must keep him rolling on the floor in tears!

Nevertheless, I have discovered that many of the joys in life come from the unexpected. The gifts in life are often disguised as challenges. If you know me well, you probably know that I love adventure and never shy away from a challenge. I have ideas that often take me down rarely traveled paths, and at a young age I knew what I wanted in life. I was confident and driven, and dug in hard for the long haul. I wanted a family with the Golden Retriever, the house in the country and the mini-Van. Things went according to plan (my plan) for a long time, and then the wheels came off the bus. I woke up one day to the realization that my marriage was over. Since then, I have learned that life is not always in our control and things don't necessarily go according to plan. I've learned a lot.

Life has been a great adventure over the past 5-6 years. Filled with both joy and heartache, I wonder what each day will bring...

This past weekend, it brought a little Granddaughter to me. I couldn't have been more proud of my daughter, Jamie. I watched the delivery (from my assigned spot in the corner of the room) in awe. Tara and Jamie's births are mostly a blur to me, so the unique perspective of watching from a distance this time was incredible. It's just amazing! Jamie was awesome, and her sister Tara has been there with her every step of the way. This morning, the two of them lay huddled with Baby Maliyah. Something tells me Maliyah is one lucky little girl :-)

Dawn and I went for a run the day after Maliyah arrived. I was aglow with pride and everything seemed right with the world. On the spur of the moment I decided to run up the icy 1/2 mile trail to the top of Pinnacle Rock. Dawn, despite her fear of the icy trail, was a good sport and came along with me. At the top, I acted like Rocky Balboa, and danced around and threw a few mock punches into the air. I raised my arms and announced to the world that Maliyah Yvonne had arrived and that everything would be OK now. I pronounced that life would get better for all, and people could relax and start spending money again. All was good due to the arrival of the Great One! Grandpas are permitted to do these things! We're just silly old men, aren't we?

I felt like an old man all week due to a cold, but managed to get out with my main man, the Goat, this morning. We did our usual 8 miles at the reservoir. The trails were super icy and we fell as much as we ran. It was pathetic at times. We talked about our grand plans as we usually do...God must have be rolling in the aisles in tears.

I do have one plan I think I can manage though....I want to be in good enough shape torun a marathon, climb a mountain, and ski the steep ones with my Granddaughter someday. We'll dance the tango and sing the blues. We'll travel the world and sample the local fare. So many possibilities... She may not buy into MY plans, but I'll be ready to support HER DREAMS when the time comes.

And so it goes...the circle of life rolls on...my claim to immortality takes another step forward...and I can't wait to see what life has to offer her! Welcome to the world, Maliyah Yvonne!

Monday, February 16, 2009

Positive Thinking – In life and on ice

Preview
I had planned to go on this annual Presidents Day weekend outing to the Adirondacks for several months, and I even secured my partner, Alex, well in advance. This is not like me. I usually wait ‘til the last minute to commit to a climbing weekend, and then scramble to find a partner. This weekend was different. I knew I wanted to climb more ice this year and develop some decent ice skills. My goal was to break into leading Grade 4 (vertical or near vertical ice for extended sections) on this trip. After a decent year of ice 2 years ago, I didn’t climb at all last year. Last year was dedicated to the Vermont 100, and now it was time to get back to my other passion – climbing.

The annual Adirondacks winter trip is such a treat. I love these mountains, and they are exceptionally beautiful in winter. The ice climbs are amazing and there is no shortage of good ice. While I consider myself to be a very experienced and proficient rock climber, I’m still a relative newbie on ice. I struggle to hold a stance long enough to get a screw in for protection. I have a hard time getting good sticks with my tools. I don’t trust my feet, etc., etc. However, each time I get on ice, I improve exponentially. This weekend would be no exception.

I trained as much as my busy life would allow and felt pretty good about my skills for this weekend. I figured I could lead some easy Grade 4, and Alex would show me the hard stuff (Grade 5 – extended vertical pitches). On Wednesday, Alex mentioned his interest in climbing “Positive Thinking” or “Powerplay” – two of the classic “hardman” routes in the DAKS. I only know 3 people that have climbed Positive Thinking, and one of them is Alex. This is the climb featured on the cover of the guidebook for the region. It’s a prize to be coveted! I swallowed hard. Was I up for the challenge?

Alex and I are equal on rock and share a passion for alpine climbing and mountaineering. On ice, it’s a different story. He’s way more experienced on ice and wicked strong. Last time I checked, I was a 134 lb. weakling that runs a lot. As much as I’d love to climb Grade 5 ice, I secretly thought, “I’ve got no business roping up with Alex this weekend. He’s on another level. Who are you kidding? He’s a lot younger than you and is built like the Terminator.

Alex suggested we warm up on an easy Grade 4 route near Positive Thinking on Saturday, so we could check out the ice conditions and get a feel for things. “Warm up on Grade 4? That’s my goal for the season, and you want me to warm up on it?”, I thought to myself.

“OK”, I said, “let’s do it!” You just can’t say no to your partner…that’s just the way it is. You trust your partner with your life. He knows your abilities as much (or better) than you do… Anyway, think positive!

On Saturday, Alex brought another friend, Andre, to climb with us. This was only Andre’s second time ice climbing, but he is super strong and very confident. We started on a climb called Forbidden Wall. It was supposed to be easy Grade 4, but looked more like 3+ to me. I led the first pitch and Alex led the second pitch. The first pitch had a 20 foot vertical section which caused me to hesitate a bit, but I managed to get up it without any issues. The rest of the pitch was fun, and then Alex finished things off. There was still plenty of time for more climbing. So, we headed for a Grade 5 area called Waterfall, and Alex led the one pitch vertical masterpiece. Andre and I followed without any issues, but it was tough! Nice job Alex! We did a little exploring and found a fun Grade 3 climb for Andre’s first lead. He powered up the thing like a champion, and we retreated satisfied. Afterwards Alex said that he had accomplished one of his objectives for the weekend: to expose me to Grade 5 ice climbing. Cool! The fact that Alex had wanted to show me the ropes on vertical ice meant a lot to me. I really appreciated it. Now, what was his other objective?

I knew Alex wanted to do Positive Thinking. I have driven past the cliff and seen the huge ice route a few times. I’m amazed to watch climbers commit to the big monster. A couple guys died on this route a few years ago when the ice fell while they were climbing it. It’s got a reputation for being one of the best and most dangerous routes around. When we looked at it on Saturday, I swallowed hard. Gulp!

Alex suggested we get up at 5AM, so we’d be first on the climb in the morning. You gotta be kidding me! Goat, my roommate for the trip, busted my chops by telling Alex we might want to consider 4:30AM. Ugh!

The next morning I found myself eating an egg sandwich at a Stewarts gas station, trying to put in my contacts from a plastic cup (forgot my case), and chatting with a local about what time the sun comes up. It was 6AM, and the sun wasn’t coming up for another 30 minutes according to him. Alex was pumped and ready to go! I was half asleep and ready to crawl back in bed.

I gotta think positive! You followed Alex on Grade 5 yesterday and this was supposed to be easier. He’ll lead both pitches, and you just need to flail your way up the thing. No problemo! Then, I realized I left my gloves at the hotel about 30 minutes back. Ugh! Luckily, Alex had 3 pairs. What a partner!

While we roped up, I was still shocked that I’d be following Alex up this amazing climb. I never considered myself capable of getting on this route, but considered myself fortunate to have the opportunity. It was a beautiful day, and life was good. Positive Thinking!

Alex did a stellar job leading the first pitch. It was his first time leading pitch 1 which is the crux of the climb. He had followed it a few years back, and thought it was pretty hard. I followed without any major issues, but my arms were getting tired near the top, and my left hand was numb. “How did he lead this?, I thought. It’s hard! Grade 5 for sure!

I looked at the 2nd pitch and thought it didn’t look too hard, but could only see the first ½ of it. I’m not good at judging an ice route yet, and they always look easier to me (very dangerous!). I’m also not good at judging the conditions either. Alex asked if I wanted to lead it. Let’s wait until the blood stops running back into my hands first, so the pain will stop and let me think. Minutes later (after I stopped wheeping like a baby – just kidding) we talked about the pitch….It looked very doable, and I knew I would never forget it if I didn’t take advantage of the opportunity.

Are you nuts? This is hard stuff and you lead Grade 3+! “Shut up, it looks doable!”, I argued with myself. Alex agreed with my assessment, but was careful not to push me into the lead. Before I knew it, I was preparing for the lead and discussing where to make my screw placements. Holy cow Batman! I told myself that I could stop and set up an anchor at any point, but knew I really didn’t like backing down. OK, just take it one section at a time – one screw placement at a time.

First 20 feet, and one screw placed. Good! 20 feet more, good! The ice was getting progressively steeper, water was showering in my face as the ice melted in the hot sun, the conditions were mixed depending on where you swung the tool, but I kept calm. Think positive! I made it through the first hard section, and caught my breath on a ledge. I was staring straight at a 20 foot vertical wall with no idea what was on top. I knew I was only about ½ way into the pitch based on what we had seen from the road. I could easily set up an anchor here and bring Alex up to finish the job. On the other hand, I would never forget it if I didn’t try it. Check out the wall and see how it feels. I put in a screw and took a few swings at the wall. The ice was perfect. Positive Thinking! Just get to the top of the vertical section and throw in a screw. You can do this!

Before I knew it, I was looking over the top of the wall and saw Grade 3 climbing the rest of the way to the top. Yes! Just get a screw in and make the exit move! I started cranking in a screw, and then my feet kicked out. I caught myself on my tools, and scrambled to get my feet under me. OK, stay calm, and clip the carabiner. I struggled with the clip. The rope weighed a ton since it was getting soaked with water. I fumbled with the carabiner. I took a deep breath and tried again. Think positive…Got it!

I made the exit moved and enjoyed every remaining step to the top. The hard part was over. I set up an anchor and smiled the entire time Alex was climbing. I thought, “ I must be doing something right to be given the opportunity to share in this spectacular climb!”

Alex reached the top and said, “Great lead!” I think we were both a little surprised that I did it. We talked about the beauty of the climb, and I asked him if he thought pitch 2 was Grade 4. He said, “It’s at least 4+”. Wow! I really thought it felt easy compared to pitch 1. Internally, I half doubted the 4+ rating, but was happy Alex felt it was worthy of a 4+ . I thanked him for taking me on such a great adventure, and knew we had both accomplished our objectives for the weekend. We enjoyed the moment the way all good partners do…there was a sense of peace and satisfaction in the air. All was good with the world due to Positive Thinking!

So, keep thinking positive… push yourself just a little and see what happens. You’ll be amazed at the results!

Sunday, February 8, 2009

Try something new

Have you ever wanted to do something, but been scared to try it? You see people doing it, see they are having fun, and can imagine how it would feel to be in their shoes. It could be running a marathon, skiing, climbing, or dancing the tango. Yes - dancing the tango!

After my trip to Mexico with the Russian Contingency (Alex, Victor, and Polina), I decided to try tango. They had told me about their tango experiences and it seemed like an addicting activity. I had been captured by Al Pacino's tango dance in "The Scent of a Woman" like so many others, and this was my chance to try it. Dawn was agreeable, so we signed up for some beginner classes. After 4-6 classes, I felt like an expert. We were clearly the best in our class, and were ready to go to a real dance (melonga). Yeah, right!!!

Dawn came to my place in an amazing red dress, and looked stunningly beautiful. However, she seemed very hestitant and nervous about our plan. Although she tries many new things (ice climbing and skiing to name a few recent endeavors), she gets a bit stressed about it. I figured, what could possibly go wrong? You try so many harder things with much greater consequences...There's no harm in this....it'll be an adventure!

After coaxing Dawn into it, we drove 1 hour to North Hampton, MA. When we walked into the small venue, I was shocked. I had never seen so many amazing dancers in one little space. They all looked amazing out there, and they were so cramped together on the dance floor. Dawn and I had been practicing long steps, and the moves we knew were limited. "How were we going to get through this?", I thought. I tried to keep cool, so Dawn wouldn't get upset. "Think, think...How are you going to get through this one, Boy Genius?"

After watching a dance or two, we saw a few people we knew from our studio, and they introduced us to the host for this event (who is also an instructor). She was very encouraging and gave us a few tips for surviving the dance floor. So, we gave it a whirl, and what a whirl it was...

We did fine with our few moves and made it through a couple dances. We stuck together like glue, and Dawn's nervous giggle made me smile. We adjusted our stride length just like a runner would do on a steep uphill, and raised our game to another level like you would do in a race or a hard on-site climb. We took frequent breaks, so I could mentally re-group. Leading the tango as a beginner can be mentally exhausting.

There were wayyyy more women than men. Many women were lined up against the wall practically begging for a dance partner. Note to all you single guys out there: take Tango lessons now!!!! These "wall flowers" were not what you would expect in a wall flower. The ladies were attractive and could really dance. Of course, none looked as good as Dawn :-).

At one point, the host asked all the new folks to come to the middle of the floor and then asked the regulars to grab us as partners for a dance. Yikes! A very good dancer came over and tapped me on the shoulder. Before I knew it, we were dancing and Dawn was off dancing with someone else. I was hoping she was OK, but was fully focused on trying to do a decent job with my new partner. I did a decent job with my limited moves, and then another lady jumped in. We had a nice dance, and then I needed a drink to calm down. Unfortunately, the strongest thing they had was lemon water. ;-) I saw Dawn out there dancing up a storm. OK, she seemed OK, so I asked another lady that I recognized from out studio to dance. She was really good, and we had fun. I started to relax more as she improvised a bit.

By the end of the night, we had set aside our inhibitions and were starting to just go with the flow. I experimented a bit and some things worked and some didn't. Either way, we were having fun with a new experience and we did it together!

So, get out there and try something new today! Try something that scares you! You'll surprise yourself and have a lot of fun! What's the worst that could happen? Don't answer that question...just do it!

Running for the week:

I've been getting in about 20 miles per week for the past 2 weeks. Hoping to ramp things up a little more in the next few weeks. Gotta get ready for spring!

Wednesday, January 28, 2009

Buttermilk Falls

Well, my goal last week was to do more mileage than the previous week. This should have been easy considering the fact that I only did 10 miles that week. I guess running just hasn't been a priority because I barely got another 10 in for the week. Sure, I could have run on the weekend, but Tango lessons, climbing gym, and ice climbing were planned. After yoga class Friday night, I was too relaxed to get out of bed Saturday morning for a run. No worries though. I've managed to get 2 runs in on the treadmill so far this week, and have a grand total of 11.25 miles to report so far. Woohoo! I might be able to break 20 miles this week!

So, what have I been doing? What could possibly be more fun than running for 8 hours on a Sunday? Well, let me tell you...ice climbing at Buttermilk Falls in the Catskill Mountains. You don't believe me? Pull up a chair and read on...

I've heard stories about Buttermilk Falls for years. It's the kind of place people talk about with excitement in their voices. They say with dismay, "You've never been to Buttermilk Falls? Oh man, it's awesome! You HAVE to go there!" I would catch a glimpse of it on the internet from time to time and it definitely looked like there was a lot of ice. It looked like an ice climbers paradise!

This year would be the year! I had looked for a partner for awhile, and then Bob asked if I wanted to go while we were eating pizza last week. I jumped at the chance (after clearing it with Dawn, of course ;-)

We met around 7AM for the drive up to Tannersville, NY. Tannersville is near Hunter Mountain, NY which is where I did a lot of skiing as a kid. I has distant cousins in Tannersville back then, so going the trip brought back a lot of fond memories for me. We took the back roads through Northwest CT. It was a very pleasant 2.5 hour drive, and then we were ready for the hike in. We could see the ice from the road and it looked like a long way up into the ravine. Temps were expected to be low with a high of 18 for the day. The climb would be in the shade on the Northface, but there was no wind which was a blessing.

We dropped into the valley, crossed a stream, and started hiking up into the ravine. It was a bit of a slog and I worked up a good sweat. Bob, known for his slow hiking, kept up just fine, and we pondered the quality of the ice.

The climb is known to be 7 pitches in length. Basically, it is the equivalent to 7 individual climbs with a 60 meter rope to get to the top of the flow. The good thing about this climb is that it is 7 tiers, so there is a flat area in between each pitch. So, it really does feel like 7 short climbs. This cuts down on the risk factor because it is easier to belay and gives more options for retreat if the weather gets bad, etc.

Bob, a very experienced rock and ice climber, had done this climb at least 6-7 times prior to this trip, so I was very comfortable climbing with him. Bob is a better ice climber than me, so he took the first pitch. The pitch had a nice vertical pillar on one side, and Bob did a great job placing 5 screws on the way up. In ice climbing, the leader places 4-6" long hollow ice screws into the ice and clips the rope to the screw for protection in case of a fall. Now, it was my job to follow and take the screws out. We were climbing with our packs on our backs since this was a long, remote climb. This allowed us to have extra clothing, food, and water, but made the climbing more difficult due to the weight and restriction of movement. My pack was riding too high, so I could barely lift my head to look upward. The ice was brittle which made it hard to get a good stick with the axes and crampons. I managed to get up the pitch without incident, but I was happy that I did not attempt to lead it. Unfortunately, I was mentally a little challenged to get my lead head on for my turn on the sharp end of the rope.

Bob took the next pitch because it was short and easy, and then it was my turn to lead. I looked up at the pitch and picked the easiest line. It had a short vertical section, but seemed manageable. I placed a screw and moved up, pulled through the hard section and got another screw in. Cool! The pitch was sweet. I looked at the next pitch with awe! It was a beautiful long pitch of blue ice. Wow! A few minutes later, Bob asks me if I want to lead it.

Hmm, I looked at it again. This would definitely be the hardest lead I have done on ice to date. I could see a line that looked doable. I accepted the challenge, and got my self prepared. I went up a few feet, and got my first screw in. Bob suggested I move a little left and stem across to the left wall. I moved up and left and tried placing a second screw. The screw went in fine, but I had a heck of a time clipping it. My left calf was cramping and I was getting tired. I adjusted my stance and tried to relax. Then, I clipped into the screw and got moving again. Whew! I climbed up the vertical ice knowing I should place another screw, but too tired to hang out to do it. I got to a decent stance before the exit, and jammed in another screw. After clipping without problems, I let out a big sigh of relief. Woohoo! After making the exit move and clearing a few more minor tiers, I was at the belay tree. Yes! My best ice lead so far!

Bob followed the pitch and led 1 more tough pitch, then I led pitch #6 without trouble. Pitch #7 is known as the crux pitch and it rated as Grade 4 ice. I haven't led Grade 4 yet, so Bob took the pitch. After getting psyched for it, we both quickly realized that this was one of the easier pitches. The top tier opens up into a beautiful amphitheatre of ice, and there are many options for the leader. The easiest line was the most traveled path, but it still looked tough. Although it looked intimidating, it really was quite pleasant. Bob said, "Steve, the pitch you led seemed harder than this one". This was music to my ears.

In reality, Bob's first pitch was the crux pitch for the day. We considered doing another pitch on one side of the flow, but it was getting late. We decided to call it a successful day and head for home.

A day of climbing ice in the Catskills. We saw about 6 other climbers all day, and the trip cost us nothing other than food and gas. The weather was great, and the sights were amazing. We challenged ourselves and had a great time doing it. Bob and I shared some stories and a few laughs, and life was good all over again! Peace.

Sunday, January 18, 2009

Winter fun

This was a crazy week. After logging more than 30 miles last week, I thought I would be able to buid on it this week. Unfortunately, it was not the week I expected . Work was very busy, but I managed to get 4.5 miles in on the treadmill on Tuesday and also did some strength training. Great start. Wednesday and Thursday did not allow me to run at lunchtime, and I climbed with Dawn and the gym on both nights. No mileage. Friday was a busy day at work as well, but I managed to get 5.5 miles on the treadmill after work. Great!

Dawn and I decided to go skiing on Saturday. We went to Mohawk Mtn. and saw our good friend, Miriam, who is a ski instructor there. When we woke up that morning, it was -14 deg F. Yikes! I was hoping it would warm up quickly. It was Dawn's 2nd time skiing in 2 years and 3rd time in her life, so I was not expecting much. I did know that she is a fast learner and is very driven. After 2 runs on the bunny slope, Dawn was ready for something more challenging. We skied some easy runs and worked on her technique. Despite the cold, we were having a great time. By 11:30, Dawn's quads were toast, so I skied a few runs by myself and then met her for lunch. We went back out and Dawn gave the intermediate slopes a try. She struggled at first, but by the 3rd run, she looked like a pro. We decided to call it a successful day and head home knowing that we have another sport we can both share.

Today, the Goat and I did some ice climbing. Tara was throwing a Baby Shower for Jamie, and I wanted to evacuate the premises. I didn't expect to see so much snow in the morning since the forecast only predicted 1-2 inches. There must have been at least 3" on the driveway when I looked outside and it was still coming down hard. Damn! I quickly started the snowblower to clear the driveway before the Goat arrived. The Goat rolled in just as I was finishing the driveway and I threw all my stuff in the car. Before I knew it, we were cruising out to Racebrook Falls like two college guys heading to Florida for Springbreak. We were excited to see some blue ice. When we arrived at the parking lot, it was almost 10:30 and no one else was there. Wow! We have the place to ourselves? Yes! Then, the Goat panicked, "PB, I forgot my harness!" No climbing partner ever wants to here those words...especially after a 1.5 hour drive to escape a baby shower. Hmm, I thought, "Let's get creative." We used a spare sling and tied the rope around Goat's waist to make a pseudo harness. Cool. We're back in the game.

Another guy arrived while we were getting ready, and headed in ahead of us. Let's get going before more arrive. We hiked in and saw that the lower falls were climbable, but not nearly as full as we had expected. The pillar loolked decent, but I wasn't sure if I wanted to try leading it. Goat wanted to try the first lead as he hadn't led a pitch on ice in 2 years. I put him on belay and off he went. As you might expect, the Goat was a bit rusty on lead and the quality of the ice didn't help. It took awhile, but I was just happy to be outside. Unfortunately, I was starting to get cold though. Goat finished the pitch and we soloed up the easy sections to get to the upper falls. Now, it was my turn to lead. The climbing looked easy enough and I debated soloing it. I needed practice putting screws in though, so off I went with Goat belaying on a munter hitch. The pitch was quite enjoyable, and Goat followed with no issues.

The forest was so beautiful with fresh snow. It was a very peaceful scene. I wanted to get in more climbing, but it was getting late. Well, perhaps another day.

So, only 10 miles for the week. A small fraction of the mileage I was doing 1 year ago, but I have no regrets. In addition to the 10 miles, I went to the climbing gym twice, went skiing, and then a day of ice climbing. It was a good week with lots of fun activities. Maybe I'll get back to some serious miles this week :-)